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不完全是法式 不完全不精緻 以城市饕客自居 因為愛吃愛喝而走上這條廚子的自學之路

2014年7月10日 星期四

Cooking Memo | Milkfish Fillet with Clams and Butter Sauce

   

        7月6日星期天的午餐過後在V大叔家中,原本約了其他友人跟我們一起享用, 醒酒兩天的Soldera 2005 Brunello Di Montalcino。結果只有我跟V大叔兩人,我們邊喝著喝一瓶少一瓶的Soldera,一邊看著"冠軍廚房Noma"的DVD,一邊又在聊著各式各樣的有關美食跟美酒的話題。

        Noma 在主廚 Rene Redzepi 的帶領下,使用丹麥當地的食材以及期許餐廳廚師運用人類與猩猩 2%差異的基因來服務客人、來對待客人。『客人在三個月前訂位,又花了大筆錢來吃這一餐,你可以理解這一切的重要性嗎?』這句話在影片中,一直重複的看到他在跟他的廚師作溝通。  Rene Redzepi就是用這樣的堅持帶領著Noma 成為全球最佳餐廳。

       好像有點離題了,Soldera很好喝,DVD也很好看。影片進行的時候,V大叔突然聊起了台灣的虱目魚(milk fish),虱目魚好吃的部位在魚肚,聽他講著他想要怎麼來料理這虱目魚,講完之後我們很有效率的往專門賣魚的店出發,該有的材料,接著就動手作啦!

       去創作一道新菜,是一個很好玩的過程,有很多原本想好的方法實際上作了之後才發現不可行,食材在手上可以嘗試很多不同的方式去達到想要的目的。尤其在最後,把魚菲利從蒸爐中拿出來,定型了!呈現了我們想要的狀態,用噴槍把魚肚的魚油焦糖化的香氣,搭配蛤蜊不同於魚肉的口感還有烤的酥脆的、微微焦香的魚皮,最後奶油醬汁把所有的材料融合在一起。新鮮的食材,加上一些巧思把台灣著名的虱目魚以西餐方式呈現,我跟Victor 很享受這樣的過程,當然還有結果。我們愉快的用兩瓶 375 ml 的香檳來慶祝今天的成果。

        附上食譜如下, 我也不知道我為什麼要寫英文,文法有錯的話可以偷偷的跟我說!!


Milkfish Fillet with Clams and Butter Sauce
Recipe By Victor Liang/YL Hsu

Ingredient :


One Milk fish , take the fillet, reserved the fish bone and head for stock
300 g Clams, washed
3 cloves shallot, miced
1 bulb Garlic, cut in half
3~4 Green onions, cut into sections
Half white Onion, diced
Thumb size ginger, sliced

5 Tb spoon (60g) butter for sauce, devide 4Tb spoon and 1 Tb spoon 
1/4 cup (50ml) white wine (Champagne)
salt and pepper
3 sprigs thyme and 3 sprigs parsley
1 tea spoon lemon juce 
half lemon zest

Method:
1. Take and Skin the milk fish fillets

2. Put the fish bone and head in a pot, filled the water just cover the bone and just bring to simmer then filter and preserve the fish bone and head

3. In a stockpot, put the fish bone and head, gralic, ginger, green onion, onion and the herbs, filled the water just cover the ingredients, bring it to boiled then simmer it an hour. Filter the fish stock and discard the others.

4. Preheat the oven to 180℃

5. Tear a piece of 20 cm clean film on the table, put the first piece of fish make sure the fish oil side placed down. Another fillet overlap on it, and the fish oil side upward.  Then wrap up two pieces of fish fillets, make sure fish oil sides are on the outside.

6. Place a piece of foil on a tray over then put fish skins on, put it in the oven 15 min or until the skins are crispy.  In the same time, put the wraped fillet in to steam furnace, 10min.

7. Heat the fish stock to boiled then add the clams, when the clams just open, turn off the heat, filter the stock then preserved the clams meat, and discard the shell.

8. Make the sauce. In a sauce pan, melt the 1 TB butter, add the miced shallots stir for 3min, add the wine then cooking 5 min or until the alcohol evaporated. Add 1 cup stock then reduce it into 1/3 the sauce, stir it often. Turning off the heat, add the lemon juice and the reserved butter, 1 Tb spoon each time.  Finally add the lemon zest .

9. Plate the fish on a plate, use a gas gun to caramelized the fish oil on the top, sparkle the clam meats, put the crispy fish skim on top and pour the cream sauce. 

Bon Appetit!